Frequently Asked Questions

How do I protect my brick, stone or pointing repair?

A breathable membrane, preferably  a hessian sheet, should be used to cover and protect the repair from sunlight, wind, cold and rain. In temperatures above 10°C the hessian should sprayed with water so that it doesn’t cure too quickly. In direct sunlight a physical barrier can also be placed in front of the repair to cast shade.

What should I do if there are lumps in the dry mortar?

If you see any lumps in the dry mortar when you open the container, simply break them down using some light pressure before adding water.

Can I get a custom colour match?

Yes. As a free service, if you send in a sample of the material that you want to colour match, we will look through our range of colours to see if we can get a match. If we are unable to get a match from our range, we can create a custom colour at an additional cost of £25.

Can you provide a colour match from a photo?

Sorry, no we cannot. Something as simple as the brightness of the screen we view it on could mean the wrong shade or colour. If you require us to match the colour then please send in a small sample. A piece the size of a 1p coin should suffice.

How much pointing mortar do I need for my project?

You will require approx. 3kg of mortar per SQM of repointing at 10mm depth in brickwork and 5KG of mortar per SQM in random stonework.

How much water do I need to add to my brick or stone repair mortar?

You allow approx. 1 litre of water with every 7 – 9 kg of dry material. So roughly 1 part water to 7 – 9 parts powder.

I have a deep stone/brick repair to carry out. Are there any special instructions?

Yes. Build up the repair in layers of no more than 10mm to 20mm per layer. For the very first layer, make the mix slightly wetter than normal, about the consistency of smooth peanut butter. This will help with bonding and adhesion. Allow each layer to dry (it does not have to fully cure) and scrape back any skin that has formed on the surface to assist bonding.

After applying the tint, white marks started appearing on the surface of the bricks.

This is called efflorescence and is caused by water reacting with the natural salts that are contained within the brick. It is quite common for walls to be cleaned prior to tinting and aggressive cleaning, such as the use of a pressure washer, can pull the slats to the surface where they then evaporate as they dry. Efflorescence can also occur with new build properties when the brickwork was not protected from the elements during construction.

How can I remove efflorescence from my newly tinted bricks?

The efflorescence can be removed using a salt inhibitor that you spray on. Please note some touch up of the tint may be required if an aggressive product is used.